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A sculpture beside Swan Lake in the Singapore Botanic Gardens
Neighbourhood guide

Orchard to Dempsey: Nutmeg, orchids and old barracks

A shopping street named after nutmeg, a UNESCO-listed garden that's free to wander and an old colonial barracks turned long-lunch district.

Orchard Road is named after something it ran out of a long time ago.

This is the easiest good day in Singapore: the Botanic Gardens in the morning, a long lunch in Dempsey, and Orchard Road's air-conditioning for the hours when the sun gets ideas. It suits garden walkers, unhurried lunchers, shoppers and couples after a date with some greenery in it. Everything is within walking distance, as long as you're relaxed about arriving slightly damp.

Best forGarden WalksLong LunchesShoppingHeritageDate Nights
The walk · Most of a day

Orchards to Barracks, on Foot

  1. Emerald Hill

    Start on this former nutmeg orchard, a largely Peranakan street from the early 1900s and a conservation area since 1989. Look up at the shophouse facades before Orchard Road's crowds sweep you along.

  2. Orchard Road

    Head west along the old orchard road towards Tanglin, past Goodwood Park Hotel, which began life as a German club. The shopping belt ends and the Gardens begin less than ten minutes later.

  3. Singapore Botanic Gardens

    Go in at Tanglin and wander the 82 hectares, laid out on a former gambier plantation and UNESCO-listed since 2015. Make a small quest of finding the Tembusu on the five-dollar note, then reward yourself at Tembusu, the restaurant on the old Halia site.

  4. National Orchid Garden

    The only ticketed corner of the Gardens, and the showcase for an orchid-breeding programme that began in 1928. The Cool House and Mist House let you see orchids from very different climates without leaving the tropics.

  5. Candlenut, Dempsey

    Finish in the old Tanglin Barracks at Malcolm Lee's Peranakan restaurant on Dempsey Road, which COMO bills as the world's first Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant. Book online well ahead.

What reviewers say

  • In Dempsey, Candlenut is the Peranakan booking: order the beef rib rendang and the babi buah keluak, and let the rest of the table fight over them.
  • Book Candlenut online well ahead; it's the one table on the hill you can't wing on a weekend evening.
  • At The Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar, skip the dessert menu debate and order the salted caramel sundae with candied peanuts, popcorn and hot fudge.
  • Find the Tembusu on the five-dollar note before lunch: bring a note to compare it with, and it becomes a quest that keeps children walking.

New in Dempsey, Botanic Gardens & Orchard

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Where to eat

Japanese

Ki-sho

A kappo counter for 11 in a black-and-white bungalow on Scotts Road: simmering, grilling and aged sashimi from a chef who once cooked for the Japanese ambassador. Lunch is the way in.

  • Where: Orchard
  • Price: S$60 and above
Japanese

Tentsuru

An omakase counter at The St. Regis that fries instead of slicing: deep-fried sea urchin, A5 wagyu with truffle. Ask for a middle seat; the ends see little of the frying.

  • Where: Orchard
  • Price: S$60 and above
Japanese

Ginza Sushi-Ichi

A Tokyo sushi counter at the top of Orchard Road: one Michelin star, a 300-year-old cypress counter and Hicho bluefin. Go at lunch, the gentlest way into starred sushi.

  • Where: Orchard
  • Price: S$60 and above
Modern Asian

Tanica

Fysh and its disco brunch are gone. The EDITION’s leafy dining room now cooks on a wok and a charcoal grill; the sets are the sensible way in.

  • Where: Orchard
  • Price: S$60 and above
Modern Japanese

Ao

Esora's chef, off the leash: all-day sharing plates behind Orchard Road, truffle mochi rice stuffed into chicken wings and a terrace where dogs are welcome. Kappo precision without the hush.

  • Where: Orchard
  • Price: S$30–60

Where to drink

Bar

Manhattan

Golden Age New York at Conrad Singapore Orchard, with more than 100 oak barrels ageing drinks out of sight. Order a classic, then its barrel-aged twin, and give it the whole evening.

  • Where: Orchard
  • Price: S$30–60
Bar

Origin Bar

The Shangri-La's lobby bar rewrites its menu every couple of years, from pepper plantations to Lego. Go to hand the decision to the bartender; the room is handsome, not theatrical.

  • Where: Orchard
  • Price: S$30–60

Things to do

Attraction

Museum of Ice Cream Singapore

Unlimited ice cream and a pool of sprinkles in Dempsey, from S$43 a head for about an hour. Worth it with children; expensive ice cream without them.

  • Where: Dempsey
  • Price: S$30–60
Other

Hom Yoga

A calm, design-led studio on the sixth floor of Orchard Central: vinyasa, hatha and yin on one timetable, and a newcomers' trial week to work out which you are before committing.

  • Where: Orchard
  • Price: S$30–60

Suggested plans

Day plan

A gardens morning, a starred lunch and a hot soak

A slow day for two on the leafy edge of town: one corner of the Botanic Gardens before the heat, a starred lunch at Candlenut, then hot pools and no phones at Nowhere Baths.

  • Where: Botanic Gardens

The story of Dempsey, Botanic Gardens & Orchard

Orchard Road takes its name from the nutmeg orchards that once lined it; an 1844 map shows the road running between them, and gambier and pepper were grown nearby before that. By the middle of the last century the street had swapped spice for shops, cinemas and nightlife, and it is still Singapore's main shopping run. Step off it and the older layers show. Emerald Hill, an orchard that became a largely Peranakan street in the early 1900s, has been a conservation area since 1989, Goodwood Park Hotel began life as a German club, and even Origin Bar's house drink nods to the old pepper and nutmeg plantations.

Less than ten minutes' walk beyond the shopping belt is the Singapore Botanic Gardens, on its present site since 1859. It introduced and promoted Para rubber across the region, started breeding orchids in 1928 and in 2015 became the first tropical botanic garden on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Its 82 hectares are free to enter; only the National Orchid Garden charges admission. Go looking for the Tembusu tree printed on the five-dollar note, then sit down at Tembusu, the restaurant that took over from the long-running Halia.

On the far side is Dempsey, the old Tanglin Barracks, built in the 1860s on yet another nutmeg estate (the spice gets everywhere) and named after the British general Sir Miles Dempsey. The Ministry of Defence was based here from 1972 to 1989. Since 2006, when the Singapore Land Authority began reworking the barracks as Tanglin Village, it has become one of the city's dining enclaves, with Candlenut, a Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant, as its headline act.

Stories from Dempsey, Botanic Gardens & Orchard

Things to do

Orchard Road, without the fatigue

Orchard Road is 2.5km of malls and it will flatten you if you let it. One stretch, a weekday morning, a detour up Emerald Hill and a rooftop at the end: that's the whole plan.

  • Where: Orchard

On the map

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