Johanne Siy's Árō puts the Philippine larder centre stage

The former Lolla head chef has her own room at last, and she has brought the Philippine pantry with her.

Book Árō for an occasion, or for the friend who followed Johanne Siy through her Lolla years, when 50 Best named her Asia's Best Female Chef 2023. Her own restaurant, 26 seats at 15 Mohamed Sultan Road, opened on 25 September with a 12-course menu that lists only Philippine ingredients: aligue (river crab fat), pili nuts, Asín Tibuok sea salt and rare Filipino seaweed. The compromise is the price, which puts it in special-occasion territory; the next step is booking, because 26 seats is not many.

Siy calls the approach "creators' cuisine", built around ingredients and the people who produce them. The point is the produce that usually gets left out of the luxury conversation while imported truffle and wagyu take the attention. The menu reads like a shopping list, and you find out what each item becomes when the plate lands. If you like surprises, that is half the fun; if you don't, ask the team, who are there to explain.

The room is small on purpose: a 10-seat chef's counter, the dining room and a private room for eight. Take the counter. On a menu built on provenance, watching the kitchen work is part of the story, and it is the best seat for asking where that salt actually comes from.

The main tasting menu's price is in the box. A shorter menu is the gentler way in if you are curious rather than celebrating. Either way, book ahead, and leave the truffle expectations at home.

Good to know Árō, 15 Mohamed Sultan Road. The main tasting menu is S$268++ per person, and a shorter menu is also available. With only 26 seats, book ahead.

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Árō | 15 Mohamed Sultan Road, Singapore 238964