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Steaming dim sum baskets late at night at Swee Choon Tim Sum RestaurantIllustration

Supper in Singapore: where to eat late

In this city, the question after midnight isn't whether anything's open. It's how far you'll drive for it.

Supper is the meal Singapore does better than almost anywhere, and this list is for anyone still hungry after midnight: pick your craving first, then your postcode. Crab and bee hoon in Geylang, mutton soup on Adam Road, dim sum in Jalan Besar. The compromise is that late hours are the first thing to change, so check before you set off across the island.

The heat finally lets up, the roads empty out, and the people still awake split neatly into chefs off their shifts, clubbers on their way home and anyone who simply fancies a plate of something at 1am. The options run well beyond fast food: dim sum in knocked-through shophouses, zi char with crab and wok hei, prata griddled into the small hours, and nasi lemak stalls that do their best trade long after midnight.

Bring friends, bring tissues, and leave the diet for tomorrow.

Evergreen

The collection

  1. Swee Choon's Jalan Besar shophouses lit up at night with diners and dim sum baskets

    1. Swee Choon Tim Sum Restaurant

    Jalan Besar

    The dim sum answer to a late night, and the one with the longest history: Swee Choon has been at it since 1962. It began as a single shophouse and now spreads across six on Jalan Besar, which tells you how many people share the habit. Har gow in the small hours is a Singapore rite, and the reason to choose this over another round of prata. Closing times have differed by night of the week, so check the current hours before you set out.

  2. A row of 19th-century shophouses along Geylang Road

    2. JB Ah Meng

    Geylang

    The crab stop of the supper list: Johor-style zi char in Geylang. Order the white pepper crab and the crisp-edged san lou bee hoon, which between them are the reason to come. It suits a table of four or more, so you can order across the menu and share the mess. Ask the crab price when you order, and bring wet wipes; there is no tidy way to eat white pepper crab.

  3. Adam Road Food Centre's low roof beside the flyover at the foot of Bukit Timah

    3. Bahrakath Mutton Soup

    Bukit Timah

    Adam Road's late-night order, and the most restorative bowl on this list: mutton or mutton leg in a thick broth, with a French loaf for dunking. A midnight bowl after a long day is close to a cure. Tear the bread into the broth rather than dunking politely; it's that kind of soup. Check it's open late on the night you go, because Adam Road Food Centre is not a place to arrive at and improvise.

  1. Chomp Chomp Food Centre

    4. Chomp Chomp Food Centre

    Serangoon Gardens

    The food centre for a group supper in the old sense: it's an evening place, and some stalls run to around midnight. Send one person for seats, one for sugarcane juice and the rest to queue for stingray and satay bee hoon. Because the stalls wind down around midnight, it suits the start of a late night better than the end of one; go earlier rather than later and you'll have the full line-up.

  2. Newton Food Centre

    5. Newton Food Centre

    Newton

    The supper after a night on Orchard, and the easiest one on this list to reach from town. The evening-only Hup Kee Fried Oyster Omelette (#01-73) is the order. Seafood is priced by weight or season, so agree the price before anything hits the wok; that one habit is the difference between a good night and a story. It's an after-dark centre, so go after sunset.

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