Birds of Paradise Gelato Boutique (Katong)

Most gelato tastes of sugar and cream. This one tastes of chrysanthemum, and the cone of thyme.

Birds of Paradise is the full stop to a Katong evening: one scoop, after laksa or a walk past the shophouses, when the heat has eased. It suits couples on an evening stroll, families with patient children and anyone who thinks dessert can be a little clever without being precious. The compromise is that the flavours are the point, so if you want plain vanilla, this is the wrong counter. Get a cone, not a cup.

Edwin Lim opened this first shop on East Coast Road in July 2016 with a grievance: most shops, he has said, "made their gelato using mass-produced gelato flavouring products imported from Italy". His answer was to infuse the real thing, fruits, flowers, pods, herbs and spices, in small batches, with flavours drawn from Southeast Asian palates. It caught on. The brand now has seven boutiques, from Craig Road and Beach Road to VivoCity, Jewel and Mandai, but Katong is the original and the one that was first listed in the Michelin Guide, in 2018.

The cone is the quiet star: house-made and thyme-scented, and the thing that makes a scoop of something floral feel deliberate rather than odd. A cup leaves out half of what you came for.

Start with sea salt hojicha, white chrysanthemum or raspberry lychee. Chrysanthemum and lychee raspberry are among the shop's best sellers, alongside pistachio and a midnight gianduja, and there is a roasted sesame for anyone who wants something darker. Our pick for a first visit is the chrysanthemum, the flavour you won't find at a mall gelato counter (and the one you will try to describe to friends afterwards, badly).

There are limited editions too: a collaboration with singer Linying built around red berries, rhubarb and torch ginger flower, and a coconut sorbet that started as a one-off and stayed. The counter changes with the seasons, so ask to taste before you commit.

How to do it well: come after dinner, take a single scoop in the cone and walk it along East Coast Road. Marine Parade MRT is the nearest station.

Good to know On East Coast Road in Katong; Marine Parade MRT is the nearest station. Other boutiques include Craig Road, Beach Road, Holland Village, VivoCity, Jewel and Mandai.

Birds of Paradise Gelato Boutique (Katong) | 63 East Coast Road, #01-05, Singapore 428776 | Nearest MRT: Marine Parade